A Peace of China: rural Tibet

begging, at every stop,
this stop was outside a village

Five young, dirty, sick looking kids crowded around the bus door, arms out, hands up, scanning the inside for what we, the rich foreigners, might give them. Close behind them were adults or older kids tying to sell jewelry, pictures with yaks, fossils, or anything else, with very persistent “Looky-looky.” Right on the side of the road are their cold, messy, bleak, high elevation camps.

Even if we stopped near a village for a “pit stop,” kids would come out of nowhere, begging. I understand that begging is part of Buddhism, but his total poverty of the Tibetan people was unexpected and I felt overwhelmed and unprepared to deal with it. Once, when both young and old came out of their nomad tents, walking some distance to our bus, I despondently turned to the guide, “But, we have nothing to give them!” He rummaged around our garbage bin, pulling out empty water bottles, and handed them over, saying, “they can use these.” A Chongqing girl in our group gave them candy.

high elevation, nomadic herder camp

Meanwhile, everyone’s camera was clicking away documenting these very colorful people living an ancient, rough lifestyle. I found this so upsetting. It felt like taking pictures of them, their camp, their animals, their life was an invasion, almost like they were on display. I wanted to just let them be, leave them alone.

We didn’t discuss or debate whether to give handouts, it just happened. For example, Steph impulsively gave all of her fruit to kids at one high pass, “…because they need it.” When she asked the guide if the Chinese government provides any assistance, he simply said, “no.” I felt conflicted, both wanting to help and not wanting to encourage begging, as heartbreaking as the poverty is. Later, we learned that the government wants to eliminate the Tibetan nomadic life. This would be an enormous loss to Tibetan culture.

Chinese culture continues to push across Tibet with rapid, insensitive “development.” Currently, a cross-country train track in under construction, west from Lhasa. The section to Shigatse will be completed within 2 years. How will that train change Tibet? Do the Tibetans welcome the change? Are they included in shaping their future?